Küchenlatein

Maggie Glezer sent me this recipe, after I showed her pictures of my
Whole-Grain Barley Bread With Barley Grits. It's one of our favoured breads, but I often omit the glaze.



-==== REZKONV-Recipe - RezkonvSuite v1.1

Title: Deli-Style Rye Bread From Michael Yoss
Categories: Brot, USA
Yield: 2 Two-pound (900 g) sandwich loaves,

================ FOR THE FIRST BUILD OF THE RYE SOUR ================
1 tablesp. (15 g, 0.5 oz) firm sourdough starter
Refreshed 12 hours earlier and fully fermented
2 tablesp. (28 g, 1 oz) water
1/3 cup (45 g, 1.6 oz) white rye flour

=============== FOR THE SECOND BUILD OF THE RYE SOUR ===============
All of the first build
1 cup Minus 2 tablespoons (195 g, 6.9 oz) water
2 1/4 cups (280 g, 9.9 oz) white rye flour

======================== FOR THE FINAL DOUGH ========================
2 1/3 cups Plus 1 tablespoon (540 g, 19 oz) warm water
All of the second build of the rye sour
6 1/3 cups (850 g, 30 oz) clear flour
1 1/4 cups (150 g, 5.3 oz) white rye flour
1 tablesp. Plus 2 1/4 teaspoons (15 g, 0.5 oz) instant yeast
1 tablesp. Plus 1 1/2 teaspoons (27 g, 1 oz) table salt
2 tablesp. Plus 1 1/2 teaspoons (17 g, 0.6 oz) caraway
-- seeds, optional
Fine cornmeal

======================= FOR THE STARCH GLAZE =======================
1 tablesp. (15 ml) corn or potato starch
1 1/4 cups (240 ml + 60 ml) water

============================== SOURCE ==============================
Maggie Glezer via e-mail
-- Edited *RK* 07/15/2004 by
-- Ulrike Westphal

THE DAY BEFORE BAKING MIXING AND FERMENTING THE FIRST BUILD

Late in the morning, dissolve the sourdough starter in the water in
a small bowl, then stir in the rye flour. Let this sour ferment for
8-10 hours, or until fully puffed and starting to fall. MIXING AND
FERMENTING THE SECOND BUILD Just before going to bed, dissolve all
of the first build in the water in a larger bowl, then mix in the
rye flour. Let the sour ferment for 8-12 hours, or until it has
puffed and started to collapse.

BAKING DAY MIXING AND RESTING THE DOUGH

Add the water to the rye sour in its bowl, and mix it to dissolve it.
In the work bowl of a stand mixer, combine the flours, yeast and
salt. Pour in the dissolved sour, and mix the dough on low speed
with the dough hook until it is soft and smooth, about 7 minutes.
Add the caraway seeds, if using them, and continue to mix the dough
until they are well dispersed. Remove the dough from the stand,
cover it with plastic wrap, and let it rest for 10-20 minutes, or
just until it begins to rise. The dough should feel fairly and
smooth, and be just a little tacky. PREHEATING THE OVEN, SHAPING THE
DOUGH, AND PROOFING THE DOUGH Arrange an oven rack on the center
rack, place a baking stone on the rack, remove all racks above it,
and preheat the oven to 450 degrees F (230 degrees C, gas mark 8).
Sprinkle a peel or other thin flat board with fine cornmeal. Lightly
flour a work surface, then turn the dough out onto the surface and
press it into a thick flat rectangle. Cut the dough into two equal
pieces and cover one piece while working with the other. To shape
the loaves, fold both sides into center of the dough and press the
dough again to even its thickness. Roll the dough up into a log with
the folded-in sides at the ends to make a log that is about 3 inches
(8 cm) in diameter by 9-inches (23 cm) long. (Basically you want to
make a short fat log to have big slices of bread for sandwiches.)
Roll the log back and forth to even it, then place it seam-side down
on the peel or thin board directly on the cornmeal. Shape the other
piece and then cover both well with plastic wrap. Let the loaves
proof for about 1 hour. BAKING THE BREADS Have a water sprayer ready.
When the dough has tripled and does not push back when gently
pressed with your finger but remains indented, slash several deep
crosswise cuts into the loaves with a single-sided razor or very
sharp knife (FYI: some bakers used 2 cuts to mark a 2 pound loaf and
3 cuts to mark a 3 pound loaf). Slide the loaves onto the hot stone
and very quickly spray them heavily with the water. Let the loaves
bake for 1 hour. After 10 minutes, lower the heat to 400 degrees F
(200 degrees C, gas mark 6). After another 30 minutes of baking,
turn the loaves from front to back so that they brown evenly, and
continue to bake the breads for another 20 minutes, or until they
are golden brown and have a hollow sound when thumped on their
bottoms. COOKING THE STARCH GLAZE As the loaf is baking, mix the
starch with the water and simmer the mixture, whisking constantly,
until the glaze is clear and viscous. The glaze should be thick but
easily spreadable. Add water to thin it or let it cook down if it is
too thin. When the consistency is right, let it cool. When the
loaves are just removed from the oven, brush them with the glaze. As
soon as that layer of glaze is dry to the touch, brush them again
for a high shine. Let the loaves cool on a rack.

Note:

Skill level: Expert Yields 2 two-pound (900 g) sandwich loaves Time
required: 20 hours before baking day, then just 3 hours on baking
day Recipe synopsis: Have ready an active sourdough. The day before
baking, mix the first sour in the late morning, and the second build
in the evening before going to bed. The next morning, mix the dough.
Let the dough rest briefly, then shape it and let it proof for about
an hour. Let the breads bake for one hour.

For corned beef, tuna salad, cheese sandwiches, or any other deli
sandwiches, this is the classic rye bread you want. Light in
texture, with a thin, chewy, shiny crust, this bread has a caraway
bite underscored by a light sourdough rye tang. You will need a
strongly fermenting sourdough starter ready to start the first build
of the rye sour.

Unlike most wheat-based sourdough breads, rye sourdoughs usually are
only flavored with the sourdough and leavened with yeast. Sourdough
ryes quickly become extremely sour and gummy, which the addition of
yeast prevents. Also note that the dough has almost no fermentation
time, only a brief rest before it is shaped (again because rye
sourdoughs get unmanageably gooey so quickly), making it a fast
project on baking day. You needn't worry about flavor development;
a good rye sour provides plenty.

You can make this bread with white or medium rye flour. The classic
deli loaf uses white rye for its lighter color and texture, but if
you prefer a heartier rye flavor and darker color, use medium rye
flour. White rye is milled from the center of the rye endosperm,
while medium rye flour includes the entire rye endosperm but none of
the bran or germ.

The clear flour in the recipe is very hard to come by, and must be
bought from a bakery or mail ordered (see Sources). Milled from the
outer portions of the wheat's endosperm including the mineral-rich
aleurone layer just beneath the bran, it is a much darker-colored
flour than a typical bread flour without actually being a wholewheat
flour. At 15% protein and with an ash content of 0.8%, it adds a lot
of gluten strength, color and flavor to the dough and is critical to
the deli rye's unique texture.

When Mr. Yoss and I baked this bread together, he wanted to see if
the crust would shrink and crackle when it came out of the oven, an
effect he calls alligatoring. When the little plates of crust
popped up, he was very pleased. The bread needs to be proofed and
baked not too much and not too little to get this affect.

This recipe makes a lot of bread--halve or even quarter it if need
be.

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